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| Tommy Shay and his dog Duke |
In Memoriam: Tommy Shay
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| Tommy Shay and his dog Duke |
Daytona Bike Week goes for ten days each March. It’s an extravaganza for motorcycle buffs from all over North America and even all over the world. It’s a loud week, Harleys in full roar beginning in late morning t about noon and lasting well past midnight.
You get the full treatment along Main Street in Daytona and out by the speedway where the races, concerts, and big-time vendors are. Chris and I ended up surrounded by bikers on Thursday when we went to lunch after a medical appointment and wandered by a famous tattoo business on U.S. 1 that hosts beer and autograph sessions with Playboy models, strippers, and assorted women in skimpy outfits despite the un-Florida chill. If you go further north on U.S. 1, you pass biker bars aplenty.
For us Ormond-by-the-Sea dwellers, we hear bikes all day and night. We’re located between Hwy. A1A which promoters now call the Jimmy Buffett Memorial Highway and John Anderson Drive which locals call the street where the rich people live. The bikers ride A1A along the coast to Ormond, Flagler, and St. Augustine. They can find nice beaches if they want to dismount but more likely will end up at one of the many saloons and tourist attractions that line the way. Bikers also use that route to go to the Highbridge Exit which will take them to the Tomoka Loop, a favorite winding tree-lined route. John Anderson also takes you to Tomoka along a winding tree-lined route by riverside houses you can't afford.
BTW, you do have to have some cash and credit worthiness to buy a new motorcycle. They start at about $25,000 and goes up to $40,000. You also need a good pickup and a trailer to haul the bikes that once zoomed freely on I-95 in the 1970s and now old bones and joints need a little assistance to get to the hoopla. There’s still lodging and food and such to buy. And don’t forget your two- or three- wheeled vehicle's maintenance costs.
Guys like my old Wyoming neighbor worked on his own Harley. He had the technical skill, tools. and big garage to do the work. One night he blasted down the street before he rolled to his driveway. Then came a knock on our door. My neighbor needed my help. I walked with him to behold the downed bike. He seemed embarrassed that his Harley was this helpless thing lying powerless on his driveway. Drunk and high, he needed my aging muscles to get the machine upright. I helped of course, the neighborly thing to do.
I have plenty of friends with motorcycles and many that used to have motorcycles. When attending Daytona Beach Community College in 1973, I shared a house in Holly Hill with a roommate who fled the north country to Florida. He helped me rebuild the engine in my 1950 Ford truck. He was a biker without a motorcycle which he had to leave behind for a reason he wouldn't talk about. He did talk motorcycle. He dressed biker too. Probably dreamed it. He moved to Orlando and the last I heard, he was riding again.
My brother Dan rode a Harley until leukemia took him away. An air traffic controller, he ran an Internet biker-oriented side business, Daytona Gear. He
loved his motorcycle. When he and our friend Blake trailered their bikes to
Sturgis, Dan invited me up to ride bitch on his bike and I did. Our daughter
Annie has a treasured Biketoberfest photo with her and her Uncle Dan on his Harley. She even
bought me a Biketoberfest T-shirt which I wore proudly around Wyoming and I
often was asked how I liked Biketoberfest and said, “Just fine, I liked it just
fine.” I had Sturgis T-shirts too.
In the 1960s and '70s, I rode dirt bikes through the Florida woods and on the beaches. They belonged to friends, little Hondas and Yamahas and Husqvarnas. I covered motocross races as a correspondent for the Denver Post. A girlfriend once dumped me for her old boyfriend, a motocross racer. I responded by mailing her a verse about love and longing that I pulled from Kahlil Gibran. Didn’t make me feel any better but I hoped she read it and thought about me for a little while.
I guess we’re all motorcycle people in America. Daytona has a special claim on big motorcycles so I guess I can claim a little slice of that. Still, I like the quiet.
This is my version of a prose poem that I dashed off late last night. Maybe it's not a prose poem. A ramble, maybe, or just a burst of words that flew out of my head. I've been doing that a lot lately. Words bursting from my mind with very little rewrite. It's fun, really, just to let the words flow. Freewriting is what I used to call it when teaching college composition. I would tell my students just freewrite for 10 minutes and then let's see if anyone wants to read their pieces. Don't think about it -- just write! Do as I do. And I would write for 10 minutes about any darn thing I wanted. Things like this:
So what do you think of Florida my old friends ask. I think what is it they want me to say that I find it the most magnificent spit of land in the U.S. of A.? They are friends so I can't lie. I find it confusing after 46 years elsewhere many elsewheres. Warmer than my recent home Wyoming but confusing. Old landmarks no longer exist or they exist in puzzling forms. The beach seems less magnificent maybe because it’s so managed. The 60s and 70s we drove the wide low-tide beach any time day or night. We drove high tide too with all the attendant risks. Mostly we were pushing Yankees out of the soft sand and sometimes they paid us because they were so grateful that their 1968 Buick LeSabre did not get gobbled by the salty-sea. We surf as the sun peeks over the flat line of the horizon. A tortoise surfaces beyond the breakwater and we hope it’s not a shark. The waves are surfable but just barely and it’s OK because there always is tomorrow and tomorrow after that. My old rental west of the interstate is now a development and the beat-up two-lane road is now named for a gated community called Tymber Creek and yeah that Tymber with a Y and all the timber cut down for new houses says thank you alphabet. On Hartford Ave my father is not out by the street, dressed in shorts and flapping button-down, with beer in hand, yelling at the surfers to slow down. I go to a funeral for a high school friend last week and the widower a guy who was my classmate and teammate and relies on a wheelchair post-stroke looks up and says, “You look just like your old man.” And I take it in stride because I do that’s a fact and I’ve heard that the old friend is incapacitated and it is not true not true at all. We share quips about our conveyances, him his fancy wheelchair and me my fancy spine-assisting e-scooter. We are a fine pair of ballplayers 1969 and we make scholarship choices and it works out for him and he returns hometown and I’m cast off into the cold and I don’t regret it now but I did hundreds of times. Our links to past lives are pulled until they almost don’t exist. I tell my new friends: Yes, this place is too crowded and this is a voice from the Capital City of the nation’s least-populated state. It’s a place where newcomers my students from Torrington and Hanna and Meeteetse say THE CROWDS!!! THE TRAFFIC!!! and we city-born ones say it will grow on you boys and girls it will grow. So what do you think of the new Florida my green-eyed senior citizen? I open the bedroom window, hear the waves breaking at night. The waves.
MS Copilot rewrite:
My old friends ask what I think of Florida now. After 46 years elsewhere, I'm confused. It's warmer than Wyoming but different. Old landmarks have changed or vanished, and the beach feels less magnificent because it's so managed. In the past, we drove on the wide low-tide beach anytime, even at high tide with risks. We helped Yankees stuck in the sand, sometimes for a fee. We surfed as the sun rose, hoping to spot tortoises, not sharks.
My old rental is now a development, and the two-lane road is named after a gated community called Tymber Creek. Hartford Ave has changed too; my father no longer yells at surfers. Last week, I attended a funeral for a high school friend. The widower, a former classmate now in a wheelchair, remarked that I look like my father. We joked about our conveyances, reminiscing about our scholarship decisions from 1969.
Living here in Florida, I tell my new friends it’s crowded, especially compared to Wyoming. But I hear the waves breaking at night, and that remains unchanged.
MS Copilot is not wrong but it's bland is it not? It just doesn’t get some things. Surprisingly, it does get other things. I thought about breaking up my big block of type into separate paragraphs. Copilot detected the change and did exactly that. AI scares me a bit. There are times, usually late at night when I am writing things down, when I wonder why I write at all. Really, why?
President Biden signed the "Jackie Robinson Ballpark National Commemorative Act" on Saturday. It designates Daytona Beach's 110-year-old Jackie Robinson Ballpark as a commemorative site and "makes it a part of the African American Civil Rights Network," according to a story in Monday morning's Daytona Beach News-Journal.
The article caught my eye because it was headed by a big photo of the ballpark's statue of Jackie Robinson handing a baseball to two young fans. Robinson's jersey said "Royals." This isn't news to locals as Robinson first played here for the Triple-A Montreal Royals on March 17, 1946. That was more than a year before his April 15, 1947, MLB debut with the Brooklyn Dodgers.
Robinson is celebrated every April 15 on his namesake day at every MLB park. He is in the Baseball Hall of Fame. He broke every record worth breaking. He died way too young in 1972. He's idolized by millions.
But the 1940s were no picnic for a black big-league ballplayer. He was all alone in Daytona and Brooklyn and every ballpark he played in. He got death threats and hate mail. He was yelled at by hateful whites. Some players refused to play with him.
It was hell playing in Brooklyn, Cleveland, and Chicago. Imagine how hard it was to play in Deep South Daytona. Some will say that a beach town in Florida was different, say, than Selma or Little Rock. There was prejudice but it was a more laid-back wastin'-away-in-Margaritaville kind of racism. But it was in the air and on the ground. And in some dark hearts.
When my family moved to Daytona in 1964, blacks were not permitted on the beachside after dark. They had their own beach named for the Bethune family of educators, a family so esteemed there is a college named in their honor and Mary McCloud Bethune's statue was installed in 2022 in the Florida display in Statuary Hall in the U.S. Capitol Building, the first statue of an African-American in that hall. Many whites in Daytona called Bethune Beach "N-words Beach." The first black surfer I surfed with appeared at our beach in 1969. Coaches at my Catholic high school recruited black players for our football and basketball teams which made us the only integrated high school among the four in Daytona (the rest weren't integrated until the 1970s).
But worse things happened in this part of Florida:
From a "Freedom Never Dies" special on WUCF, a PBS station at University of Central Florida in Orlando:
By 1930, four thousand blacks had been lynched nationwide by white mobs, vigilantes, or the Klan. Most of these occurred in the Deep South, many with law enforcement complicity. And while Alabama and Mississippi had more total lynchings, it was Florida, surprisingly, that had the highest per capita rate of lynching from 1900-1930.
"Freedom Never Dies: The Legacy of Harry T. Moore" documentary debuted on PBS stations nationwide 24 years ago Jan. 12. Ossie Davis and Ruby Dee narrated. Sweet Honey In The Rock and Toshi Reagon performed original music. Here's some background information from the WUCF web site:
Combining Murder Mystery, Incisive Biography and an Eye-Opening Portrait of Jim Crow Florida, "Freedom Never Dies" Sheds New Light on one of America's Earliest and Most Fearless Fighters for Civil Rights.
In 1951 after celebrating Christmas Day, civil rights activist Harry T. Moore and his wife Harriette retired to bed in their white frame house tucked inside a small orange grove in Mims, Florida [Mims is in north Brevard County, a 45-minute drive from Jackie Robinson Ballpark]. Ten minutes later, a bomb shattered their house, their lives and any notions that the south's post-war transition to racial equality would be a smooth one. Harry Moore died on the way to the hospital; his wife died nine days later.
"Freedom Never Dies: The Legacy of Harry T. Moore" explores the life and times of this enigmatic leader, a distinguished school teacher whose passionate crusade for equal rights could not be discouraged by either the white power structure or the more cautious factions of his own movement. Although Moore's assassination was an international cause celebre in 1951, it was overshadowed by following events and eventually almost forgotten.
"Freedom Never Dies: The Legacy of Harry T. Moore" produced by The Documentary Institute, restores Moore to his rightful place in the Civil Rights saga.
They are tiny figures on the outside sandbar, straddling their surfboards, heads bobbing up with each oncoming wave, and then obscured again behind the froth.
I know how it feels, this waiting. It’s not like other
kinds of waiting, waiting for a traffic light to turn, waiting in the grocery
store line, waiting for school day’s final bell.
It’s waiting for the future, waiting to see the heft of the
wave, the promise of the day’s best ride as the sea moves beneath your board
and lifts you up and it’s up to you to see where you go and what you do
And sometimes it’s a bubbling brute of whitewater that
pushes you off the board and into the drink and depending on the wave size, how
much time you spend cartwheeling until you emerge to find your board.
These young surfers out there today, they wear leashes and
their boards spin with them and sometimes into them.
In the 1960s, the boards were bigger and unleashed, could
whack you good if close enough, the skeg or fin a sharp knife that can leave a
mark.
My surf life was short, a high school thing that I left
behind in my twenties and I don’t know why.
Some of today’s surfers will be out on the waves in twenty
years – remember how young you were at 37, half my age now? At 17, 37 is
forever years away, 74 is so far down the line that it doesn’t exist except among
those old people who clog the roads as you speed to the beach before the waves
get blown out.
Age beached me. I can’t walk. I can swim with a floatation
device. I can get to the beach by car and use my walker to get to the water,
let it lick my toes, take me back to 1967 when a December day with waves was good
enough but not as glorious as a July day with surf and 80-degree water and my
fellow surfers surround me and I spy my girlfriend pull up and park and she
waves and I return the wave and feel as if I will live forever this way, a
young man in the ocean, just waiting for the next wave.
WELCOME TO 7,220 FEET.
That's a huge sign on UW's War Memorial Stadium. It's meant to psyche-out teams visiting from lower altitudes, which is any NCAA Division 1 school.
My Ireland-born grandfather was about my age now when, in the 1980s, he traveled to the Mile-High City of Denver, the place he spent most of his adult life. The day after his arrival, he was hauled off to the hospital with breathing problems and heart pains.
A few days later, a physician told him to go home. He said
Colorado was his home. He also had to admit he’d spent the last six years
living in Bradenton, Florida, with his second wife.
The doctor explained that most of Florida was sea level and
Denver was a mile high. Grandpas knew all this. He arrived from Chicago as a 19-year-old
hoping that the dry climate would help him breathe with his one lung. It did.
He worked for the railroad and was a bank guard. He spent a lot of time mowing
lawns and shoveling snow for his neighbors. He loved mountain treks, often
exploring unpaved roads that he and his ’57 Chevy had no business on. My
brothers, sisters, and cousins loved those trips, jouncing unbuckled in the back
seat.
So, at 75, Colorado had become the enemy.
Go home, old man!
My Uncle John had the same problem when he (at 62)
journeyed to Denver from his Naples, Fla., home. Heart issues drove him to the
hospital. The doctor there said basically the same thing: go home. He was a
Denver native, who lived all over the Front Range and even up in Buffalo Creek
and commuted to The Flatlands every morning.
Go home, old man!
Not a good thing to hear, that you are too old and decrepit
to live in a place that meant so much to you.
I bring this up because in September my wife Chris and I
will move to our new home in Ormond Beach, Fla., some 10 feet above sea level (for now). What is this Florida obsession
of our family? The space program took my father and uncle and their families to
the Sunshine State in the mid-1960s. Work and the military took some of my sisters
and brothers and cousins away, but most of them returned. I did not.
What was I looking for? Work, mainly. Why am I returning to
Florida? Retirement, mainly. My remaining brothers and sisters live in Central
Florida. Chris has friends from high school and community college in the area. We
met in Daytona Beach and got married just north in Ormond Beach. Many more
health care choices in the area. I am a heart patient and partially disabled.
Chris is a diabetic and breast cancer survivor. Our new home on the aptly named
Ocean Shore Drive is close to the beach and recreational activities.
I close by saying that as a 73-year-old heart patient, I
probably will not return to 6,200 feet. I might push it a bit to come for a few days to visit
my two grown children and any grandchildren that eventually arrive. But who’s to
say where my 30-something offspring will be in one, two, even five years? And
who knows where I will be.
Go home, old man!
There is much to be thankful for. But there are no
guarantees, are there?
Chris and I are looking forward to our April trip to Florida. Both of us did some of our growing-up on Florida's east coast, Daytona Beach for me and Ormond Beach for her. Daytona was (and is) a beach town with all of the trappings: beachside motels and souvenir shops, lots of bars, and a very nice beach. Daytona also has the speedway for auto races.
Ormond begins just north and it was looked at as the more genteel neighbor. We went to the Ormond beaches when Daytona's were crowded. The beach sand was deeper and less drivable, but most of it was open to surfers with the main destination the Ormond Pier. If you go further north, there is Ormond-by-the-Sea which is a bit redundant and then Flagler Beach, named for the robber baron railroad magnate of the 19th century.
Flagler used to be a funky little beach town with a good surfing pier but growth has changed it. Palm Coast development is in Flagler County and it replaced thousands of acres of wildlands. For one of my jobs, I used to drop by city and county offices to get lists of building permits and then rush over to Orlando to type all of it into The Construction Report, printed and distributed each Friday. It wasn't really writing but kind of fun.
In case you didn't know, construction is big business in Florida. Big, big business. Florida's big challenge, besides its dingbat governor and legislative troglodytes, is people trying to find affordable home insurance. They could be cast into the homeless by the next climate-change-caused hurricane which can't possibly exist due the state's GOP-heavy legislature banning teaching anything like it in school. I grew up by the beach and we had sand dunes then, created by the Lord Almighty to blunt the impact of big storms' tendency to wash tons of sand back into the ocean.
The so-called peninsula I lived on is a barrier island. It is supposed to serve as barrier to tropic thunder. It did for many millennia before promoters decided they could make beaucoup bucks by selling plots of sand to Howard Johnson's and Steak-n-Shake and Americans bent on living the dream. I lived that dream and it does seem dream-like to me now, a retired bureaucrat in Wyoming.
It was a beautiful place to grow up. We surfed by day and waited on tourists at night. Me and my eight brothers and sisters grew up freckled and barefoot, one of the wandering tribes of Daytona. We had a home to go to but, as time passed and my parents got older and more frazzled, we were turned loose to have fun but not get into trouble. We mostly succeeded.
If I sound sarcastic in my Florida appreciation, I sound like this all of the time. Chris has a whole different set of beachside stories. Most involve teens getting fake IDs at 16 and going into tourist bars. They had fun but didn't get into too much trouble, or so she says.
When I moved away from Daytona Beach, Florida, the beachside still had sand dunes and you could drive the entire World's Most Famous Beach. I drove the packed sand many times. At night, I drove and then parked between high-tide-line and dunes to discuss the state of the world and Catholic doctrine with my girlfriend. Sometimes, the whitewater was lit up with a bioluminescence provided by nature. Sometimes I was the one who was lit up.
The Florida I loved has become joke fodder for late-night comedians. I will give you this: the governor is a joke as are his right-wing minions in the legislature.
I've been reading interviews with people who have moved to Florida from other places. They are asked whether they are fine with the decision or regret the choice. Some love the Florida they discovered during a family vacation and vowed to return for some old people fun in retirement. Some have had it up to here with the likes of killer hurricanes, retiree-chomping alligators, and nitwit politicians. They are decamping to other warm-weather beachside communities in the Redneck Riviera, Texas, or the Carolinas, both the North one and the real one in the South.
I just read an online article on Max My Money with this header: “Boomers – Florida Doesn’t Want You” 10 Places In Florida Where You Won’t Survive On Social Security. Gosh, it’s tough the be unwanted. These 10 snobbish Florida locales include Miami, Naples, Palm Beach, and Sarasota, none of which have surf. I grew up surfing in Florida and that's how we graded the livability of any place. Key West is on the list. It also has no surf but it does have Hemingway’s house and Tom McGuane used to hang out there when writing “92 in the Shade.” In 1982, Christine and I honeymooned in the Conch Republic following our May wedding at St. Brendan the Navigator Catholic Church and the Ormond Beach Knights of Columbus Hall. In Key West, we drank at Sloppy Joe’s, counted the toes on Hem’s cats, snorkeled offshore. Tourists!
My Florida is a large triangle from Daytona to Gainesville to Orlando and back to Daytona. That’s the Florida I know best. When this Baby Boomer retired from my 25-year career with the Wyoming Arts Council, Chris and I looked at retiring in Florida. Too expensive. Not enough choice in dwellings. Crackpot governor. We stayed put and watched from afar Florida’s human comedy.
My youthful encounters with Florida retirees were from a distance. We surfers gathered at Hartford Approach and watch them walk the beach. You could tell the long-termers by their leathery skin and hip bathing suits. Many were daily walkers, on the beach early like surfers. Better rested than most surfers, up until 2 a.m. and jolted out of bed at 6 a.m. by friends shouting through the window to get your ass up. We knew a lot of these old-timers, men and women both. New Yorkers under Yankee caps, Canadian accents.
Then there were the sojourners in town for a weekend of a week or maybe the entire winter. They were in couples or groups, mostly kept to themselves. They yelled at us when we drifted out of the surfing area.
Those seniors of the 1960s and 1970s are all gone now, every single one. Their footprints live on. You can see them glowing late at night on the beach. Their memories of what lured them to Florida.
Just one more thing about Jerome Charyn and J.D. Salinger...
In "Sergeant Salinger," the author stresses Salinger's "battle fatigue" (PTSD) which is a major part of the story. But not all. Charyn writes that some of the signs were there as a youth. An unusual boy with loads of imagination and talent. He struggled in school. First he was in a NYC public school that he liked and then went to a private academy when his father started being successful and moved to Park Avenue. He struggled here. His parents pulled him out, enrolled him in a military school in Pennsylvania where he thrived. The discipline and routine was good for him. It appears he had the makings of a soldier at an early age. And he was a good soldier in the war although a bit unorthodox. His teen years also gave signs of genius and mental health challenges.
I bring this up because some experts have traced many cases to PTSD to a soldier's early life. Maybe they had trouble learning or maybe they were just a bit off-kilter. What would he have been like without his war experiences? Who knows? But he did and he was a recluse and very careful with his privacy and reputation. Not everything he wrote later in life was as good as "Nine Stories" and "Catcher in the Rye." He joins a long line of writers who hit it big early on and then not so much. Jerome Charyn, on the other hand, just keeps getting better at 86.
I have no first-hand knowledge of military service and combat. But good books and movies can impart some of that experience. Charyn does it in this novel. Vietnam vet writers such as Tim O'Brien and Larry Heinemann and Bill Ehrhart and Yusef Komunyakaa do it in print. It took flyer Joseph Heller 17 years to write and then publish "Catch-22." It took Kurt Vonnegut even longer to serve up the Dresden firebombing in "Slaughterhouse Five." Silent movie film director W.S. Murnau took his years as a World War I German combat pilot and created a monstrous creature in "Nosferatu." J.R.R. Tolkien transferred the horror of the trenches into a blighted netherworld called Mordor with its pitched battles and fiery pits and humans adrift in murky holes -- you know, The Somme, July 1916.
"No soldier ever really survives a war" -- Audie Murphy
Make that two more things...
In a chapter near the end of "Sargeant Salinger," Sonny Salinger and his sister Doris vacation at the Plaza Hotel in Daytona Beach, Fla. The Plaza was a post-war vacation destination for Northerners. It was best known for the tunnel motorists blasted through to get to "The World's Most Famous Beach," back when you could drive freely on it. That was my introduction to the Atlantic Ocean when our father drove us through it on our first day in Daytona.
In the novel, Sonny breaks away from his sister's watchful eye and joins some kids making sandcastles on the beach. The kids eye him suspiciously as he joins in, shows them some techniques he perfected during family trips to Daytona. A concerned mother fetches her kids and eventually Doris fetches her brother. Nothing is mentioned about bananafish but you can see the beginnings of the short story.
This became my beach in the late 60s, from the Plaza down to Hartford approach where we surfed. The only thing I knew about Salinger then is that I had to read "Catcher in the Rye" for English class. We chatted up girls, played frisbee and made sandcastles when the surf was flat, as we used to say. We eventually headed home and off to our night jobs at restaurants and hotels. My mind was mostly on surf and girls, getting enough pay for gas so we could find surf when none was to be found in Daytona.
Next time I visit Daytona to see family and friends, I'm going to the beach in front of the Plaza and try to see what Salinger saw. I know now that writers see things others don't. I may spot a bananafish struggling to get out of a hole in the ocean because it got too fat eating underwater bananas.
Hurricane Dora hit a couple weeks into the new school year. The lead story in that morning’s News-Journal featured an illustration of a swirling Hurricane Dora with an arrow pointed right at Daytona. Still, our parents sent us to school. Midway through the day, the nuns made us pray for Dora to hit somewhere other than Our Lady of Lourdes Catholic Church/School/Shrine/Nunnery. They finally sent us home.
My father evacuated
us to the mainland. We went as far as a motel along U.S. 1. I spent the night
listening to WROD 1340 on my transistor radio and tracing Dora’s progress on
the tracking map I ripped out of the morning paper. At the window, I watched
the gusts batter the palms.
The storm brushed by Daytona and moved on to St. Augustine and Jacksonville. We returned to our modest house in an Ormond Beach community designed for middle-class vacationers and now was temporary home to the migrating hordes of engineers, technicians, and accountants planning the moonshot. The hurricane had turned our house into a white cinder-block island surrounded by murky water. We turned our picnic table upside down to make a raft and poled across the backyard.
During the next couple years, we bought a house in Daytona and stayed put. The ninth kid was born. We visited the Jacksonville zoo and marveled at the city’s new shopping mall. In January 1967, right in the middle of Father Lopez Green Wave basketball season, my father announced that the need for accountants on the Apollo Moon Mission was coming to an end, at least in Florida. He could stay with G.E. but only if he agreed to be transferred to Cincinnati. He had a big family to feed. Other G.E. employees who declined to move to Cincinnati or Schenectady or Boston now were pumping gas or checking in Georgia tourists at beachside motels.
The good news about him leaving is that he didn’t want to drive his 1960 Renault Dauphine to Ohio during the winter. Since I had conveniently passed my driving test in December, he was leaving me his car and chauffeuring duties for the ten people remaining at our Hartford Avenue house which was going up for sale on Monday.
Next: Cincinnati or bust?
I stepped off the plane at the old Jacksonville airport expecting the worst. It was after dark and August’s heat and humidity wrapped me in its stifling embrace. I herded my mother and brothers and sisters down the airplane stairs, across the tarmac, and into the terminal. I greeted my Dad and complained about the heat. “You get used to it,” he said.
We loaded kids and luggage into our Ford Falcon station wagon and headed to a motel as it was getting late and the babies were crying and the rest of us were cranky. We drove by a car and its window was wide open and the guy driving was not wearing a shirt. Seems ridiculous to remember that decades later but in Colorado or anywhere else in the West I had never seen a guy driving without a shirt. We landed at a motel and my brother Dan and I saw a family swimming in the pool. Swimming at night? My God, this was a different sort of universe. We bugged our Dad to let us go swimming and he did, probably because he’d been on his own for a couple months and had forgotten how many unruly children he had spawned and wanted to get rid of a few of them. The pool felt great after a day spent on planes and in airports.
The next day, we drove to our new home in Volusia County. Every bridge we crossed had at least one person fishing on it. It was a workday in the middle of the week and everyone seemed to be fishing. We breezed into town, crossed the Intercoastal Waterway, drove through a tunnel under a big hotel and right onto the beach. I had seen the Pacific during our vacation trip to the Seattle World’s Fair in 1962 (we lived in Washington State then) but I had never actually been in an ocean. And so many girls in bikinis.
The next day, we all went to the beach. The water was kind of rough but being in the ocean was so cool. Mom made us wear shirts when not in the water to cover skin vulnerable to the sun like any other Irish-American kids who’d spent their youth in snow country. Mom came in the water with us but Dad watched from the beach because he never learned how to swim. Hurricane Cleo was coming up the coast and passed through Daytona the next day, stirring up the surf on its way to St. Augustine. It dumped plenty of rain, more than I’d ever seen in one storm.
Next: Trial by hurricane
Over 400,000 people worked on the Apollo Program. – From the end credits of Richard Linklater’s Netflix film “Apollo 10½: A Space Age Childhood”
My father was one of them. Unlike’s Linklater’s Houston-based father, mine worked closer to Cape Canaveral, in an office in Daytona Beach, Fla. Thousands joined the Moon Mission, most of them answering JFK’s call although he was no longer around to cajole and promise. Lyndon Johnson would be president when Neil Armstrong walked on the moon on July 20, 1969 after being launched from the Cape on July 16. Johnson was glad for a bit of good news after the battles of the 1960s which weren’t over yet. Camelot a distant memory. On this hot July day in Florida, hundreds of thousands of space-age lunarnauts and millions more around the world rooted for U-S-A!
July 20 always
brings footage from the lunar event. It seems like yesterday that I watched it
in black-and-white telecasts beamed from the lunar lander. I am 72 and retired.
I look through veils of nostalgia. I sometimes share my memories with my two
30-something children. They are mildly amused. At least they believe that we
landed on the moon. I think they do but it’s difficult to know for sure. All of
us carry different memory-loops through life and they change as time passes.
What do I remember from this time? Some things I know for sure. Others are a bit foggy so I conjure what seems closest to the truth. I have not made up anything that follows but I may remember it imperfectly. That’s life.
I was 13.67 years old in August 1964 when our family of 10 moved to Florida. I was not pleased to be moving to the third state I would live in during the past eight months. In January, I’d been yanked out of St. Francis Grade School in suburban Wichita in the midst of basketball season and the wooing of classmate Patty Finn. In February, I was walking to the bus stop in snowy Denver to attend the split session at a junior high packed with Boomer kids and the site of at least two knife fights and a teacher mugging during my short time there. In June, my father came home from work to announce his new job with G.E. and our Florida move. He had finished the task of hiding nuclear missiles among the sagebrush of the West. The space program needed his accounting skills and our family was going along for the ride. Dad moved immediately. We sold our house, packed our goods, said goodbye (again), and off we went.
Next: Night Swimming in the Sunshine State
Can you call someone a friend if you haven’t seen him in 40 years?
On Monday, I heard the news of the death of my old
friend David. He suffered a stroke and was being transferred to rehab in
Daytona Beach when his body gave out. The news came to me on a Facebook post
from Dave’s sister in L.A. I was shocked. He is not one of the first to die in
my high school class – Class of ’69. We’ve all hit 70 now and the inevitable
cohort replacement grinds on every day.
The last photo I saw of David showed him holding an
AK-47 which he was using for target practice out in the Florida woods. He had a
gun hobby. He also was a dedicated fisherman. He once ran a popular bait shop
in Daytona. He could talk your ear off about fishing and often did. We went to
high school together and were roommates once on a little acreage we called The Farm.
It was anything but a farm. It was an old house on Hull Road in rural Ormond
Beach. The road was named after the family who built the house, one of the
area’s first human residents besides Native Americans and the occasional
Spanish explorer looking for the Fountain of Youth or cities of gold. Our high school, Father
Lopez, was named for the priest who accompanied Pedro Menendez de Aviles when he landed in St. Augustine in 1565 to kill French Huguenots. Ponce de Leon had claimed Florida for Spain in 1513 during his fruitless
search for youth, something, I guess, many Floridians search for.
Our little house had three bedrooms, one bathroom, a
kitchen, a massive fireplace, and an outdoor shower. Our girlfriends hated that
shower even though we assured them that nobody could see them as our property was
surrounded by forest. Didn’t seem to make a difference. They would take baths
in our big iron tub or wait until they returned to their respective civilized
indoor showers. Picky, picky.
The property was owned by a group of physicians who
had bought it for an investment. This place will someday be filled with houses,
they contended, and we laughed about it when we got stoned on the weed stashed
on the farm by a friend who swore us to secrecy. Years later, as time marched
on, the land was bought by a developer and now is a thriving neighborhood
called Tymber Creek. That’s timber with a y as in “some tymber was sacrificed to
build these spacious homes.”
I have fond memories of a man who meant so much to me
long ago. In 1971-72, David and I were college dropouts. The military draft
passed us by. I worked days as a hospital orderly and David worked evenings as a cook at a pizza
joint. He brought home the leftover pizza that became our breakfast, lunch, and
dinner. We could exist on pizza because we were 21 and always on the move.
Our futures had already started. I wandered the
property with our dogs, always alert for rattlers and coral snakes. At
twilight, we stopped at an open field and watched the bullbats. As they dive for insects, they make a strange whooshing sound. I’d come back
to the house to write, always writing. David was out casting for bass or snook on the
Little Tomoka River, looking for something out there on the Florida waters. I
hope he found it.
Anything was possible then.
During the 1970s, I went back to school and then returned to the
area many times as I looked for work and finally decided to light out for the
western territories. That’s where I am today. Still writing.
David, may the fish be plentiful and feisty in the Beyond.
Angel Kisses
The sun’s first ray taps the crown of my head. I’m the tallest
creature on the ocean, me, a young man bobbing just outside of the breaking
waves. Light from 93 million miles away cascades over my torso, lights up the many
colors of my surfboard, paints my body with freckles that will only become visible
when winter comes. Soon all the surfers will be illuminated, their
multi-colored boards, the stripes on their baggies. The sun will crawl over the
beach and the early-bird walkers and houses perched on the dunes and the town
and Florida entire. It will unleash the heat, fire up the humidity of a July
morning. Decades later, a Wyoming dermatologist
talks about his family’s Colorado ski vacation as he scoops skin from this young
surfer turned old man. Cancer may have been there all of this time, a remnant
of the sun’s touch during hundreds of mornings in the semi-tropical sun. My
crown, my nose, my ears have all been biopsied, scraped and sown. Nothing
awful, nothing like melanoma that killed my brother. I wonder if the
dermatologist slaps on sunscreen before he negotiates Steamboat runs named High
Noon, One O’clock, Two O’clock for the prime meridian times that January sun reaches
the west-facing mountains. If sunscreen had been a thing in 1967, I would have
used it. Maybe. I know one thing – I would never trade one second of those
mornings for blemish-free skin. Every scar a dance with sun and ocean, every
freckle the kiss from the heavens. “Freckles are angel kisses,” my mom told me
when I believed in angels. I now know the science behind melanin and derma, ephelides
and solar lentigines. But during my seventieth year on the planet, angel kisses
seem exactly right. Just perfect.
An April issue of UK’s Autocar featured the Renault Dauphine in its
list of "22 Totally Charming Cars." It showed a still life photo of a powder blue Dauphine parked by the ocean. The car looked as if it had just left the 1960s showroom. I
contrasted it with the sad photo of a derelict Dauphine in another issue of Autocar and the article "The Haunting Abandoned Wrecks of Rural
France.," It showed a rusty shell of a Dauphine being swallowed up by
undergrowth in "a remote field in the French Alps."
This tells the story of our family's 1960 Dauphine. I first saw it parked in our Wichita driveway in 1962. My father needed a car to commute to
his job as a civilian accountant at the local air force base. That left our
1960 Ford Falcon station wagon at home with my mother who needed it to get us
to school, haul us to doctor appointments and run off to the grocery store. I
still can see the look of horror on the faces of grocery clerks as Mom hauled
her eight children, two of them babies, into the store. My father went to the Totally
Charming Yet Obscure Cars dealership and returned with Renault. It was an
oddity in a world of Olds Cutlass Supremes and GTOs. Big powerful rides
were the thing. The Dauphine was tiny looked almost the same from the front as
it did from behind. The engine was in the rear and looked like something that
might power a lawnmower. If it didn’t start, you could wake up the engine
with a hand crank.
My father’s not around to ask but I do wonder why he chose such an
impractical car when he headed a family of 10. He might have seen Renaults on
the streets of Paris on leave during the war. He might have liked the two-tone
horn (loud for city, soft for country) and the fact you could wind it up like a
toy car if it refused to go. He never said. But they are some of the Dauphine
traits I admired when I was gifted the car in 1967.
The previous year, I had learned how to drive in it on Daytona's deserted
winter beaches. I failed my first driving test in it when I arrived at city
hall on Dec. 18, 1966, with a bum fuse. The DMV man asked if I wanted to take
the test using hand signals or return on another day, fuse replaced. It was my
birthday. I had a date that night with a girl I fancied as my girlfriend. I
took the test and failed. I did OK with left and right turns but forgot to
gesture down for stop. I was devastated. It was a long slow ride home with my
father and am embarrassing phone call to my date.
My father was transferred from Daytona to Cincinnati early in '67. The
Dauphine had many miles and he didn't want to drive it north so he put it in my
hands. The idea was to take my brothers and sisters to school and anywhere else
they wanted to go. My mother still had toddlers and a baby (No. 9) to care for.
We would finish the school year, sell the house, and then join our father in
Cincy. My brother Dan and I had been most resistant to the move. We were
surfers, for God's sake, and there was precious little surf in Ohio. I played
JV basketball for the Father Lopez Green Wave and had high hopes of making the
varsity in my junior year. And I had a girlfriend, sort of.
I did OK bossing around my siblings. I was also OK with having a car. It was
no prize after seven years of hard use and three years of assaults by rust
spawned by the salt air. It had really earned its rusty-red color. My
classmates began to know me as the guy with the French car which sounds pretty
romantic until you got a look at it, especially after I ripped off a rear door
backing out of the garage and could only find a powder-blue replacement at the
junkyard. It looked like a high school kid's car but that was OK as I was a
high school kid with a car.
I revel in all of the fun we had. We crammed into the car and rode The Loop
around Tomoka State Park, turning off the headlights to admire the darkness and
tempt fate. I bought a surf rack and we wandered up and down A1A searching for
surf. Girls thought my car was cute and liked to ride. Meanwhile, I tried to
find a girlfriend with a muscle car so I could feel like what it was like to
drive American. I dated Darlene for a year and got to drive her canary yellow Chevy
Chevelle SS 396 and later her canary yellow Pontiac GTO. She had a thing for
yellow. Her father bought her a new car every year. She didn’t mind riding in
my car and but liked it better when my father returned from Cincy and bought a
white Plymouth Barracuda that he occasionally let me drive.
During high school graduation summer of 1969, my Dauphine died. Kind of a
drag as I worked two jobs getting ready for college and had to bum rides. I
sold my car cheap to a guy who planned to turn it into a dune buggy. I imagine
my car’s stripped chassis blasting through the beachside sand dunes before they
were replaced by condos. I can also imagine my two-toned car with the two-toned
horn abandoned in a “remote field” somewhere in the Florida scrubland.
I am 70 now. I am always 16 driving my Renault down The Loop’s dark road. Sometimes the headlights are on and sometimes they are off. I am happy.