Monday, November 22, 2021

Just what are the origins of that tuna casserole my Mom used to make?

CBS Sunday Morning was all about food and drink. An historic Mexican cafe in San Bernardino, a Yemini coffee speakeasy, the origin of Ranch dressing, the rise and fall of NYC Automats, the art of making Italian Orecchiette pasta, the refined tongues of taste testers, and so on.

It caused me to think about my food traditions. I have none. I cook Mexican enchiladas, Asian stir-fry, Kansas City-style barbecue, U.S.-style Thanksgiving dinner. Typical American diet, right -- a sampler of cuisine from elsewhere. Or a smorgasbord, a Swedish type of cafeteria that was a thing back in the 1950s. Because Americans come from everywhere, so does our food. 

I should have Irish-American foodways. If only I knew what those were. Corned beef and cabbage? Irish oatmeal? Irish Stew? Rashers? Soda bread? Guinness-infused desserts? Irish coffee? 

No idea. My mother passed along recipes for Jello molds and tuna casserole. My father made his Scots-Irish mother's spaghetti and meatballs. One could live off of that I suppose, but would you want to?

The anti-tuna-casserole stance involves a bit of food snobbery. I began to think of my Mom in the kitchen, faced with the hungry stares of her many children, and I realized that a couple cans of tuna, a can of cream of mushroom soup, a dash of milk, and a handful of corn flakes for crunchiness made dinner for eight for a few bucks. All she needed was a can opener and a stove (no microwaves yet). Many "homemakers" of the 1950s faced the same challenge. Bless you Mom. Sorry I made such a fuss. 

I Googled tuna casserole recipes and there are thousands. Still. Heather Arndt Anderson wrote a witty "Brief History of the Tuna Casserole" for Taste Magazine. In it, she traces the origins of the dish to a traditional German noodles and fish casserole. The first recipes in the U.S. show up in the 1930s. It started in the Pacific Northwest and then migrated to Middle America. Modern conveniences such as COMS and canned Charley the Tuna was all that was needed to feed hungry groups of fledgling Baby Boomers. That led eventually to Tuna Helper and a recipe for tuna casserole that's "not for wimps." 

As an American, I come from nowhere and I leave no food traditions for my offspring. A sad state of affairs. My daughter Annie will help me cook Thanksgiving dinner. The recipe is a 16-pound roasted turkey, mashed potatoes and turkey gravy, stuffing, green bean casserole, and pumpkin pie. I bought cranberry sauce but use it on my turkey sandwiches. I like sweet potatoes but the family does not. I have a childhood memory of my Aunt Ellen's sweet potato casserole topped with marshmallows. It was a revelation -- marshmallows on taters? What wondrous world is this? I brought the recipe home to my mom but she never made it. I never have either. 

My parents and my wife's parents were meat and potato people. Who could blame them? Growing up in the 1930s, they were lucky to eat regularly. The Depression cast a pall on my parents' generation. That's why food companies found a willing populace for beef roasts, hamburgers, hot dogs, and, eventually, TV dinners. What miracle is this, an entire meal in an aluminum tray? Mystery meat, whipped potatoes, green beans, and an apple crisp dessert hot enough to burn away the roof of your mouth. We loved them. Mostly, though, we lived on casseroles, macaroni/cheese, hot dogs and burgers. Cereal for breakfast. Baloney sandwiches for lunch. 

I continue these non-traditions. Sure, I try new things from other cultures but keep returning to the tried-and-true. We eat a lot of stews and chilis in the cold months, many kinds of salads in the summer. But if I was asked about traditional foods, I would draw a blank. Why do I cook chicken on the gas grill? Why do I use a certain marinade? When I make Irish stew, how Irish is it really? Research shows that stew is a catch-all for whatever you have around the house. Hobos cook Irish stew from veggies they scrounge in the fields. Who invented the chili  make and why? I cook Italian sausages made in Boulder, Colorado. How Italian are they anyway? The Tex-Mex dishes I make are not the same ones you find in El Paso and Mexico City. I do not like corned beef and cabbage and have no ideas about its origins. The most Irish thing I imbibe is beer, usually stouts like Guinness which is made in Dublin and now in a Baltimore brewery. 

Now I'm rambling. But the same question remains: what am I eating and why? One of the reports on CBS today was about the rise of plant-based diets. Vegan and vegetarian restaurants have been a thing for awhile but there's a rise in popularity. You can assemble a vegan meal at most restaurants in Cheyenne but there isn't an all-vegan one. Closest WYO vegetarian restaurant is Sweet Melissa's in Laramie and quite a few in Fort Collins.

I do not want to go vegan but I do grow vegetables and eat them. Fruits, too, but all of mine comes from Colorado, California, and Texas. I eat less red meat but I eat a lot of chicken. There's a company called Daring Foods making veggie-based chicken and I plan to try it if I can find it in Wyoming stores. Tabitha Brown grew up in the meatcentric South but now is vegan and wrote a vegan cookbook, "Feeding the Soul." Her reasons for changing her diet is to stop chronic pan and fatigue. A very good reason. My heart condition makes it crucial to cut down on bad cholesterol and its tendency to cause inflammation that upsets the heart. 

My goal is modest. Replace a few meat-based meals with plant-based. Some practice Meatless Mondays which sounds reasonable. Alliterative, too. I also want to track the origins of the food I eat. I like to lose myself in the maze of research. It's habit-forming. Like bacon.

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