Dedicated to my brother, Tommy Shay, who died Christmas Day in Orlando from cancer complications.
Paddle
out, man. Dig deep, feel the tide’s pull as you stroke against it. Surf is
bitchin’ today. A storm heads through, leaves behind a five-foot swell that
breaks clean in the offshore wind. You paddle with the swell, ocean feathers
around you and something magnificent jumps in your chest as you glide with the
wave. This moment will last forever. You kick free and head back to the breakers
to find a circle of surfers in a becalmed sea. One holds an urn of ashes. In it
are beach sunrises, great waves, friendships. The ashes drift with the sea. One
last time, you paddle out to meet the sun.
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